“Condiments are extra … anything extra will cost
extra.”
This redundant rule is at the top of the menu at Niko’s Greek
Kitchen. While the proclamation is peculiar, my husband and I still
agreed that Niko’s offers a chance to enjoy some quality
ethnic-and-then-some local cuisine.
I am still semi-new to Reno, was never more than vaguely aware of
West Street Market, and knew nothing of Niko’s Greek Kitchen,
opened by owner-manager Niko Theologitis approximately five months
ago.
We came to try the food, of course, but the setup at West Street
Market is extremely cool and worth an excursion in any event.
Niko’s occupies the tiniest niche for kitchen and cashier but
enjoys what amounts to cafeteria space with tables and chairs in the
large conjoining area between it and Se7en, a bar and teahouse. For the
effort of walking 30 feet you can leave the high ceiling and bright
lights of a convenient deli for dark, romantic ambiance and local folk
music. Alternately, you can sample the offerings of the West Street
Wine bar, also adjacent. Patrons of both neighboring establishments
were taking advantage of this. As we made our selections, we saw
Theologitis hustling off to-go orders to customers of both.
We decided to try all the sides, not just for the sake of
professional thoroughness but also in light of the inviting prices. We
had pita and hummus ($3.99), stuffed grape leaf dolmades ($3.99),
spinach pie spanakopita ($3.99), and feta cheese pie tiropita ($3.99).
We also got the fries ($2) just to see if they were anything special,
but found out they were superfluous anyway because our veggie gyro
($5.99)—“Jah-row,” as one customer loitering at the
counter insisted on pronouncing it—came with fries on the
side.
Everything was great except the middling fries and the slightly
leathery pita. The hummus had the perfect balance of lemon and
tahini—anyone who likes hummus knows this is not a gimme. The
stuffed grape leaves had just the right tang and what tasted like a
splash of mint. The salad and dressing in the gyro were perfectly
fresh. The pies were, simply put, the bomb. My culturally
underprivileged husband had never actually had feta cheese pie before,
but I have, and Niko’s ranks quite high, especially considering
the price.
Carnivores will of course want to try the chicken gyro ($5.99) or
the chicken souvlaki ($7.49). We regret not trying the Greek salad
($5.99), which also has a gyro meat variation ($7.99). We also
neglected and thus are unable to report on the quality of the baklava
($3), a standard delicacy with Mediterranean cuisine. By that time, we
were just too full.
Cleverly, Niko also offers some standard American-style pub grub,
such as mozzarella sticks ($5.99) and chicken wings ($7.99). You can
even stay put and slake a thirst with a Greek beer ($3.50).
When we first arrived at Niko’s, my skinflint husband
originally and allegedly ordered the sundry items for the purpose of
hoarding some for later, but we ended up devouring them all. I can
truthfully say that on more than one occasion since our visit, when
time to make dinner is short and the desire for quality eats on the
cheap seems tempting, one or both of us has said, “Why
don’t we just go to Niko’s?”
Even where extras are extra, it’s still a great deal.