M&M’s Southern Café has long been the local source for Southern comfort food such as catfish, oyster po’boys and fried okra. The dining room’s booth seating and broad-back wooden chairs are perfect for friends and family to gather and linger over tender barbecue ribs and large Mason jars of sweet tea.
Less widely known is the owners’ commitment to family and serving their community. For Mitch and Gieshula Moore, compassion for others is as integral to their life’s work as the recipes from Mitch’s 82-year-old mother on M&M’s menu.
It’s no surprise that the Moores’ story begins with family. Mitch owned a salon, where Gieshula’s mother was a regular. Her aunt also owned a barbershop and mentored Mitch in barbering. The couple married in 1998 and worked together at their salon.
“His passion for food drove us to where we are,” Gieshula said about her husband, adding that he always had a good business sense.
In 2006, Mitch purchased a food truck by taking a second mortgage on their house. Serving fried chicken, gumbo, and fish and chips, the truck soon became popular at local events such as the Sparks farmers’ market.
One day, they discovered a stray bullet embedded in the truck after Mitch had worked at an evening event off Sutro Street in Reno. That’s when they had a vivid epiphany to “get in a building to serve people,” explained Gieshula. They closed the salon and opened M&M’s Fish & Chicken Shack on Mill Street.
In 2007, Perfect Peace Community Church in Sparks asked Mitch to be their pastor.
“I marry a lot of people in the community,” Mitch said. He also presides over funeral services.
The couple organized clothing and food ministries through the church. While staffing their Mill Street location, Gieshula recalled, they were fair-minded regarding potential employees. They had at least 10 employees who had criminal records; restaurant training and a solid work reference provided those with a past a chance at a future. One former cook eventually opened his own restaurant in another state.
In 2015, the Moores moved their restaurant into a space formerly occupied by a Japanese restaurant, a couple of doors down from their church, in a Sparks strip mall.
“People know you’re a minister and want to talk to you,” Mitch said. “The biggest demand now is loneliness, struggling marriages and family life.”
Since the ministry extends beyond Sundays, and life events rarely adhere to a schedule, there have been times the Moores have had to close the restaurant in order to meet the needs of the community.
“You don’t look for reward,” said Gieshula. “People come first.”
She added that most of their customers understand. Some of their regulars have been with them since the Mill Street years.
Amos Hunt, a faithful regular, never missed dining there on Saturday until his passing six months ago. As soon as he walked in, the person working the counter would call out, “Hunt basket.” The kitchen knew to prepare a basket with two pieces of catfish, a few fries and a Coke.
“He taught you how to have a thankful disposition,” Gieshula said of Hunt.
Much has changed since Mitch and Gieshula started working together in the salon. Many of the fields that surrounded Sparks then are now neighborhoods. Their six children are grown and have their own jobs and families. But certain truths remain, such as deep relationships developed through community—and powerful memories evoked by good food.
M&M’s Southern Café is located at 820 Holman Way, in Sparks. For more information, call 775-356-1070, or visit mmssoutherncafe.com.