There was a time in Reno when every bar offered a Jameson and Pabst Blue Ribbon special. It was the hipster handshake that defined drinking in our community in the 2010s.
Because of these long nights of countless shots and beers, paths were carved in our brains that now make it harder to enjoy Irish whiskey. When we overindulge in a spirit, it creates a response that can lead us to eat $45 worth of Taco Bell, which, in itself, is a traumatizing experience. A lot of what I do as a beverage educator is reintroduce people to the categories of spirits that caused them to make new friends in bathrooms and make the kinds of bad decisions that lead to a road cone in their bed when they wake up.
So, with that in mind, take my hand, and let me reacquaint you with my very dear friend, Irish whiskey.
More than 1,000 years of history
Not many people know that some of the very first distilled, grain-based spirits were made in Ireland, and depending on the source you believe, they may have been the first ones to do it. Distilling practices arrived on the island in the 12th century (though many contend that they were distilling 200 years before this). Back then, monks figured out that if you put fermented liquid into a still, the result would be medicinal spirits; due to the lack of vineyards and grapes found in other distilling cultures, the Irish turned to grain to make their distilled beverages.
This first beverage was not the caramel-colored, barrel-aged product we know today; it was what the Irish call poitín, an unaged Irish grain whiskey. In 1556, whiskey production in Ireland got so out of hand that the government had to step in and issue licenses, which did little to curb production. It was not until 1779 that the Irish lords said “no more” to the wild and weird producers making all kinds of (very unsafe) whiskey, and the number of distilleries went from 1228 to just 246 in a year. This consolidation highlighted the need to produce more whiskey at fewer distilleries to meet demand, so in 1831, the Coffey still was born.
The Coffey still, or continuous still, allowed producers to make more whiskey, more efficiently and at a lower cost. This still is used today in almost every distillery in the world—so if you like bourbon, vodka, tequila, gin or pretty much anything distilled, you can thank the world’s demand for Irish whiskey.
Made to enjoy
Many people assume that Irish whiskey is a harsh, steely product that must be gulped down in a shot, with their nose plugged, or followed by the strongest possible chaser, like pickle juice. These people are missing out on a world of soft and subtle flavors that the Irish do so well.
One of the great joys in my life is the flavor of Irish whiskey and Irish cheese together. It’s a match made in a culture that does both of those specific arts with a particular rustic cottage-core charm.
Irish whiskey is malt-based and must be aged for a minimum of three years by law; these practices yield a lighter, softer whiskey that holds a world of creamy, floral flavors. While the continuous still was born in Ireland, their real art is in the pot still, which almost all Irish whiskey uses in some way. This still style is the most basic in design, but it yields an artful blend of oily texture and spicy flavors. So, if you overcome the fear you may feel about drinking Irish whiskey, you will find a spectrum of flavors that goes from spiced rye bread to clover honey to creme brûlée.
If you are looking for that spicy boy, Jameson is your best bet. If you are looking for that honey kiss, try Tullamore D.E.W. And if you want to see what creamy body Irish whiskey can have, look no further than Bushmills.
Food pairing and cocktails
Now you may be thinking that you want to dip your toe back into the Irish whiskey pond—so where do you start?
One of the great joys in my life is the flavor of Irish whiskey and Irish cheese together. It’s a match made in a culture that does both of those specific arts with a particular rustic cottage-core charm. This is, in part, due to the grassy boldness of Irish cheese and the inherent honeyed creaminess of Irish whiskey. Bringing a creamy, bold Irish cheese and a bottle of Redbreast to your next get-together might just make you seem like the greatest culinary mind in your friend group.
But if the food pairing is a little too much for you, try replacing the bourbon in your favorite cocktail with Irish whiskey, and you will see a difference in how light the drink is. An Irish whiskey old-fashioned is like the spring cousin of the traditional bourbon version, which is heavier in corn and barrel flavors. (Bourbon is 51% corn by law.)
Knowledge is power, and knowing more about the spirits that have broken your heart (and mind) can help give you the power to find a love for them again. So sláinte, and enjoy a glass of Slane or Tullamore D.E.W. for me—especially if you have a slice of cheese in the other hand.
