Tony Costa has been making pizzas and pouring drinks in Reno since 2004, and Cosmo’s Snack Bar—the midtown spot he opened with his twin brother Chris in September 2023—represents nearly a decade of dreaming made real.
The brothers cut their teeth together at Blind Onion Pizza and Pub from 2004 to 2008, but their paths diverged for a few years. Chris founded Reno Public House and ran it until selling it in 2023, while Tony worked the front of house at beloved local spots like Great Basin Brewing Co., Old Granite Street Eatery, Von Bismarck and Liberty Food and Wine Exchange. Now reunited at Cosmo’s, they’ve created something special: Tony runs the dining room and daily operations while Chris and chef Danny Johnson run the kitchen, where a Mugnaini wood-fired oven takes center stage. The result? Rustic, charming, impossibly good food in a space where it’s hard to have a bad time.
What’s the best thing you’ve eaten locally in the last month?
Deep-dish pepperoni from R Town. Detroit style pizza is so good!
Your kitchen is on fire! (Metaphorically.) What are you cooking?
Well, our kitchen is literally on fire! We have a wood-fired oven that’s the heart of everything we do—it’s right there in the bar area where guests can see it in action. Everything we make is cooked or prepped in there, from our wood-roasted veggie apps and meatballs to even small details like our croutons and sausage, made in-house. But one dish we’re especially proud of is our wood-roasted cauliflower—a half head roasted in that wood-fired oven, coated in herbed tahini, and topped with pistachios, chili crisp and fresh herbs. It’s a dish you won’t find anywhere else.
Who is/was your strongest culinary influence?
To be honest, despite being a restaurant owner, I don’t consume much food-related media. But two pizza places have really influenced what we’re doing at Cosmo’s—Scarr’s Pizza in Manhattan and Roberta’s Pizza in Brooklyn. I absolutely adore both for their food and aesthetic. They’re charming and rustic, and just places where it’s impossible to have a bad time. That’s the vibe we’re going for.
What is your go-to midnight snack?
Cereal. I’m a carbo-load-at-night type of guy. Nothing generic, though—gotta be the good stuff.
Which local restaurant deserves more attention and why?
My family and I love ethnic food. We’re regulars at Royal India, Casale’s, Kwok’s Bistro and Speedy Burritos. But the place that deserves way more attention? Bar La Loca in Incline Village.
How does food contribute to our community?
I feel that in the last 20-some years, Reno has grown so much, and gambling has dropped off significantly. Because of that, the Reno/Sparks/Tahoe restaurant scene has really leveled up—kind of like a mini Vegas. People aren’t coming here just to gamble or get married and divorced anymore, so restaurants can’t just be an afterthought. When it comes to our community specifically, there are so many good local places now. We have to support them, so we don’t end up eating all our meals in strip malls!
What is the one thing you won’t eat?
A century egg. I have a weak stomach.
Please share your favorite food memory from growing up.
I have a large family—two brothers and three stepbrothers, all around the same age. So, our meals together were big by default. A lot of mouths to feed. One time, on a whim, we all went to hot pot at the old 168 Chinese restaurant, and nobody had any clue what we were ordering or eating. It was like a culinary Jackson Pollock painting. The people who worked there were amused and astonished at what eight ignorant and hungry white people could do to their elegant custom. It’s not my tastiest memory, but one I could never forget.
What is the one kitchen tool you can’t live without?
I’m in charge of all our soft serve at Cosmo’s—I make it myself—so for me, it’s hands-down our big commercial immersion blender.
What has been your most memorable meal?
I ate at the original Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas around 2011, and I remember being completely floored by how good everything was. I still think about it to this day.