I stopped to catch my breath, looking behind me to justify my effort. The trail yields little sympathy as it rolls (although the descent feels sharp) down a grassy hill, but the view behind it gave me a greater reason to pause.
From this spot, about a mile into the California Trail’s Truckee Route near Verdi, I could see the beginnings of the Truckee Meadows framed by the northern flank of the Carson Range, Crystal Peak and the hills of Peavine Mountain. Utter quiet surrounded me, in a meadow of green skirted with Jeffrey pines and mule ears. I smiled, rolling my eyes at the woman I had been an hour before, trapped in a lie that it was too hot, with a sun too relentless to explore near home.
This is a common lie I tell myself, one that feels more and more true each time I sit on the black leather seats of my Subaru while running errands in the summer. We live in the high desert, right? It’s a place that would be nearly inhospitable from July to September without a working air conditioner (or at least a good swamp cooler) and endless streams of cold water in our kitchens. But unlike other places—like Fresno, Calif., the hometown I’ve happily abandoned—this slice of Northern Nevada provides us with a varied environment with a surprising amount of water (most years) that is easy to access, plus a generous nightly wind to cool us off.
I’m not recommending summiting Rattlesnake Mountain at 2:30 p.m. in the middle of July, unless you’re more lizard than primate. However, I am advocating for local, summertime trail adventures.
One incredible stop in town that promises shade is the Oxbow Nature Study Area. The mile-ish loop around this restored river habitat site is under a canopy of mature cottonwood trees. Only in small sections must you leave the shade, and you’ll find incredible views of the Truckee River, plus opportunities to dip your feet in the water. To visit, find the park at 3100 Dickerson Road, Reno, where the road dead ends.
Another great stroll is the Wilbur D. May Arboretum and Botanical Garden at Rancho San Rafael Regional Park. This extensive arboretum is tranquil, cool and a place where it’s easy to lose yourself. Be sure to bring a map to orient yourself among the various gardens and groves. I highly recommend making it here just before golden hour, about two hours before the sun sets, to enjoy views toward Mount Rose at the Irwin Overlook. Neither the arboretum nor the nature study area allows dogs; if you want to bring yours along, head to the park’s Nature Trail instead. This mile-ish walk stays mostly shaded under black willows and is accompanied by the trickling of Evans Creek.
For me, the California Trail is set to become a season staple. The trail is exposed in parts, but it is at a slightly higher elevation (5,130 feet vs Reno’s 4,500-4,600), and the visual of trees makes the environment feel cooler. I went out on a Sunday at 5 p.m. when it was 80 degrees, and I felt comfortable throughout the hike, even while enduring the steeper sections. The things I love most about it are the mountainous landscape, the slightly different perspective on the area, and how quiet it is. I saw no one on the trail during the entire two hours I was out there. Though Dog Valley Road—popular with motorists—cannot be seen from the trail, engine noise may occasionally drift in its direction.
The trail climbs immediately from the trailhead, ascending a bit more than 1,000 feet over its 2.6 miles, and offers some great shade around the 1/10 mile mark. This shade can be misleading, as it leaves and doesn’t return until another 1.4 miles or so. Through the shade and out the other side, sage mixes with Jeffery pine and the occasional bright-colored mule ears. About half a mile in, the trail crosses a dry wash, and another trail splits off to the left. Continue straight (north) to stay on the trail. Very shortly after this crossing, U.S. Forest Service signs appear every tenth of a mile or so. These tall, skinny signs announce that you are now walking the California Trail, Truckee Route. The next 0.3 miles is a push (this is where I had to turn around to validate my heart rate), but it opens up into a beautiful meadow with gorgeous views. At this point, the forest starts edging closer and closer, soon to provide more shade. At 1.5 miles, under the grace of healthy pines, another trail makes a sharp switchback onto this one. Continue straight. At 1.8 miles, a trail splits off to the right; this leads to Dog Valley Road. Though you could take this shortcut, continue straight for 0.3 miles to stay on the single track trail until it crosses Dog Valley Road. Cross; you can locate the pedestrian trail on the opposite side of the road.
This continues the final half-mile to a parking/staging area marked with a large trail map. While the ending is not totally satisfying (no grand vista), there are many options to continue the adventure before turning around and heading the 2.6 miles back to the trailhead. One option is following Dog Valley Road southwest for a 5.2-mile (one way) walk to Stampede Reservoir. More off-highway vehicle roads splinter from the staging area, each promising its own adventure. Follow Sunrise Creek Road south from the staging area for 5.7 miles (one way) to summit Verdi Peak, or head north along Long Valley Road to Dog Valley Campground (2.4 miles) and Crystal Peak (5.1 miles). Note that these are all shared adventures with motorized vehicles.
To get to the California Trail’s Truckee Route trailhead from Reno, take Interstate 80 west to Exit 5, toward East Verdi. Continue straight, then take the second exit at the next two roundabouts. Turn right onto Bridge Street at 1.3 miles, then right onto Dog Valley Road at 1.9 miles. Continue for .6 miles (across the California border) and park in a small, dirt lot on the right at the intersection of Sunrise Creek Road. The parking lot is decorated with a large Forest Service sign. Locate the trail by looking across the street at the right-hand side of Sunrise Creek Road (39.524309, -120.012928). The closest AllTrails map is that of the Dog Valley motorized route. Note that the California Trail is the small, blue-dotted trail to the southwest of the highlighted trail.
Whichever adventure you choose in the coming months—even escapes to Tahoe or Truckee—don’t leave the house without one liter of water for every expected hour of work, roughly three miles or so; more water is even better. Wear sun-protective clothing with UPF ratings of at least 30, hats and sunscreen. Bring more snacks than you expect to eat, especially salty and sweet foods and electrolytes.