In nearly three decades in the culinary world, Mark Estee has gone beyond the traditional role of chef to become a leader in Northern Nevada’s food scene. A Johnson and Wales University graduate, Estee first planted his culinary flag here in 2002. He co-founded Moody’s Bistro Bar & Beats in Truckee and later established the Local Food Group, a company that includes Reno’s Liberty Food and Wine Exchange and Gardnerville’s Overland Restaurant and Pub.
Great Basin Brewing Co., which Estee purchased in 2021, has initiated a “closed-loop food system” in partnership with Minden-based Park Ranch Meats, in which spent brewing grains feed locally cattle raised cattle. The goal is to create a sustainable, farm-to-table ecosystem that supports local ranchers, generates jobs and yields premium meats. Learn more at www.renolfg.com.
What’s the best thing you’ve eaten locally in the last month?
Beef tartare at Brasserie Saint James. There is something about raw beef and a great cocktail that gets me rolling.
(Editor’s note: After publication, Estee clarified that he has enjoyed the beef tartare at Brasserie Saint James many times, but not in recent months. It is not currently on the menu. —KV)
Your kitchen is on fire. (Metaphorically!) What are you cooking?
Zampone, or cotechino—incredible sausages made from pork trimmings, cooked skin and warm spices, stuffed back into a boned pig’s foot, then braised for eight hours at a low temperature until it’s ready to crispy up and serve for the table.
Who is/was your strongest culinary influence?
Being from Boston, I always loved chefs who cooked with heart, soul and passion like Todd English and Jody Adams. As I moved West, I admired great chefs like Alice Waters and Paul Bertolli. But for me, the standard bearer has always been Thomas Keller (of the French Laundry) as a chef’s chef, one who takes on hospitality as a whole and not just cooking.
What is your go-to midnight snack?
Back in the day, I was up at midnight a lot more than I am now, and I was very fond of opening my fridge and making any version of chilaquiles—a quick, Mexican-influenced dish of eggs, tortillas, sauce and whatever else I could find in the fridge and pantry.
Which local restaurant deserves more attention, and why?
Thali is pretty badass. Serj (Johal) and his family use organic, local produce and products whenever they can. It is also a very chill vibe over there, and the food is delicious!
How does food contribute to our community?
Food is the language of all. There are so many ways to answer this question and so many issues to discuss, but having access to great local food can lift a community. This means that we have access to local farmers’ markets, local produce in our grocery stores, and local products in our restaurants. Any amount, even a few items here or there, can make an impact.
What is the most unusual thing in your refrigerator right now?
Tie: a variety of piperade peppers that my friend Pam Zamora gave me, and three cans of tinned fish. The best news is that those two things on a piece of Liberty toast is my new favorite midnight snack.
Please share your favorite food memory from growing up
Cooking Sunday sauce with my dad. It’s hands-down my favorite memory, as he is a great cook, and he taught me the sauce recipe at a very young age. The smell of garlic and onions cooking brings me back to that memory all the time.
What is the one kitchen tool you can’t live without?
I love a good spoon and have many types for many reasons: a wooden one for sauces and risottos, Gray Kunz-style spoons for sauces and plating, and generic large share spoons that can twirl pasta and flip a steak!
If you could have dinner at any restaurant in the world tonight, where would it be, and why there?
Via Carota in New York City, with my wife, Kimberly. We would sit at the bar and eat and drink our way through the entire menu, then head over and see a Broadway show. The food there is gutsy, simple and exactly what we love to eat!