Photo/David Robert; Design/Dennis Wodzisz

If you’re new in these parts, welcome to the Biggest Little City! 

By now, you’ve noticed that this place doesn’t quite look like it did in the brochure. When we spoke with recent transplants about their impressions of Reno, the most common complaint was that they found downtown to be a letdown. 

Reno’s not perfect, but we love it nonetheless, so we thought we’d show you around. In this guide, you won’t find the “10 best” anything as deemed by Forbes or Yelp. We’re here to share the Reno that we know and love in all its grit and glory; maybe answer some of your most pressing questions; and, if all goes well, help you feel like a local a little faster. 

—Kris Vagner, managing editor 

Newcomers by the numbers 

  • Reno’s population in 2024: 278,226 
  • Annual population growth rate: 1.2% 
  • Population increase since 2020: 13,245 

—Source: World Population Review 

  • Washoe County’s population in 2024: 518,057 
  • Washoe County’s projected population in 2043: 578,070 

—Source: Nevada Department of Taxation 

First impressions 

Candid observations from actual newcomers 

It’s way prettier than you think it is. The freeway impression of Northern Nevada is nothing like the neighborhood and wilderness portions of Northern Nevada. The Washoe and Carson valleys are gorgeous from inside the valleys and from the mountains around them, every bit as pretty as the most beautiful places in the country.  

I’m tired of people assuming we hate California or dislike folks who came from there. 

—Ford Goodman, retired software tech executive, who moved here from Sonoma, Calif., in 2021 

After decades living in a big city without a car, it’s been a treat to be in close proximity to such a fascinating and varied landscape, and the driving is easy! 

—Kelly Chorpening, artist and chair of the University of Nevada, Reno, art department, who moved here from London in 2022 

What struck me immediately—and what I loved and found a little weird about Reno—was how many different things it had going on, and how it was so many things all at once. Coming from Key West, where the identity is so clearly defined, I was inspired by the diversity of what Reno had to offer. There’s a river running right through the middle of town, art everywhere you look, casinos, a rock-climbing wall, a hot air balloon festival—and somehow all of these things exist within just a couple of blocks of each other. … From that first trip, I knew I wanted to move here. I felt like Reno was at the same stage of life as me—still figuring out who it was. … It’s a city that rewards you for engaging, for getting involved and for contributing to its ever-evolving story. 

—Jaime Chapman, proprietor of Pineapple Pedicabs and executive director of the MidTown Reno neighborhood association, who moved here from Key West, Fla., in 2019 

I have not heard honks from cars since I arrived in Reno in August. This is weird to me since I come from a country (Bangladesh) where the honking of cars is the norm. So far, I have found the people in Reno to be welcoming. I have not heard about any major crimes. It has a huge art scene. 

I read about homelessness and poverty in the U.S. before coming here. But when I see homeless people on the streets of Reno, it does not feel right for me. I think the city government should do more to help the homeless. 

—Fazlur Rahman, business journalist and University of Nevada, Reno, graduate student, who moved here from Bangladesh in 2024 

I always wanted to live in a beautiful place where I could walk out of the grocery store and see snow-capped mountains. I have been here a few years now and don’t take that for granted. 

I find Reno incredibly uncomfortable to walk around. You have to drive somewhere to go for a walk without people looking at you funny. 

Reno’s got the apartments, jobs and shopping I need in my 20s. 

—Erica Hill, city of Reno employee, who moved here from Carson City in 2021, via Markleeville, Calif., and San Francisco 

If you look at subreddit Reno, the second-most common question on there is, “How do you make friends?” (The first is, “Why are Reno drivers so bad?”) … I think the biggest thing is to understand that if you don’t have a pre-existing social base here, it is going to take time to find a group to be part of and to start developing those long-lasting friendships. Now, that is (the case) anywhere, but I think it’s particularly difficult here in Reno because of the active antagonism toward newcomers. 

—Joel Traveller, data center manager, moved here from Hercules, Calif., in 2021 

The first three restaurants you should try 

These are the spots we grew up eating at that somehow miss the “Best Restaurants” radar. 

Louis’ Basque Corner 

301 E. Fourth St. 

louisbasquecorner.com; 775-323-7203 

Most people who grew up in Reno have a wild tale from a night at Louis’ Basque Corner. Go for a family-style dinner; chat up the strangers sitting at your table; accidentally spill table wine; dip fries in the beans; order the oxtail; and regret those two Picon punches the next day. Welcome to Reno. 

Casale’s Halfway Club 

2501 E. Fourth St. 

casaleshalfwayclub.com; 775-323-3979 

History is (literally) written on the walls of Casale’s Halfway Club, “the oldest family-owned restaurant in Nevada.” The food is old-school Italian, and the menu hasn’t changed much over the years, because it doesn’t need to. While the half-spaghetti/half-ravioli plate is iconic, the lasagna is the dish most people rave about. 

J.J.’s Pie Co. Photo/David Robert

J.J.’s Pie Co. 

555 W. Fifth St. 

jjspieco.com; 775-786-5555 

Tell a local you ate at J.J.’s, and watch their face light up. It’s a nostalgic place, holding memories of birthday pizza parties, family gatherings and high-school first dates. You won’t find blistered, wood-fired crusts, but you will get a thick, doughy, delicious pie, as well as cold beer and views of walls covered in Budweiser Girl posters as old as the restaurant itself. 

—Maude Ballinger, RN&R contributor and founder of food blog Fork Me Reno. 

Eateries that show off Reno’s best-in-class food options 

For when you want to impress your out-of-town friends 

Kauboi Izakaya 

1286 S. Virginia St. 

775-453-2592 

To call Kauboi (if you live here, you and “Kauboi” are on a first-name basis) a Japanese-ish, tapas-style hole-in-the-wall might convey an idea of what the restaurant is, but it wouldn’t capture the complexity and uniqueness of dishes like chicken heart yakitori. It’s something you just have to experience. Go with a group of friends, and order as many things as you can to share. Yes, the music is loud, and yes, it is absolutely always worth the wait. 

Cosmo’s Snack Bar 

253 E. Arroyo St. 

www.cosmosreno.com 

Maybe it’s because the classic pepperoni pizza (with the crispy cups, of course) is exceptional. Maybe it’s because the Caesar salad has an addictively delicious dressing and is made with curly kale. Maybe it’s the seasonal soft serve, the orange wine, the negronis on tap, or the buy-one, get-one-half-off pizza on Sundays. Whatever it is, it’s hard not to love Cosmo’s. 

Royce Burger Bar 

115 Ridge St. 

www.roycereno.com; 775-440-1095 

At this point, most people you know have been to Royce. The place used to share a kitchen with Old Granite Street Eatery and only served their now-iconic burgers before expanding a bit. Today, Royce makes one of—if not the—best burger in town. They also serve incredible cheese curds, wings and an amazing salad; it’s the only salad on the menu for a reason. The vibe remains casual, cozy and comfortable. It’s delightful to be served unassumingly delicious eats while sitting on a leather couch in a dimly lit bar. 

—Maude Ballinger 

Essential Reno cocktails 

Ask 10 people to characterize the local bar scene, and you’ll get 10 different answers. Classy wine bars? Divey digs? A happening craft brewery scene? We’ve got it all in spades. So, where’s a new Renoite to start? Making your way down this list of iconic local concoctions should help you get your bearings. 

Picon punch at Coney Island Bar 

2644 Prater Way, Sparks 

coneyislandbar.net; 775-358-6485 

To understand drinking in Reno, you must have a Picon punch. The unofficial official cocktail of Reno is Basque in origin, and it is a punch—not in the tropical or literal cocktail sense, but in the punch-to-the-face sense. Everything about drinking in Reno is in a sip: strong, weird, and once you have one, you understand why we love it. I love the Coney Island Bar’s Picon, because that’s where you can have construction workers, state senators and old ranchers all drinking the same thing in the same place while eating plates of cold-cut deli meat.

Picon punch at Coney Island Bar. Photo/David Robert

Foreign Relations at Death and Taxes 

26 Cheney St. 

www.deathandtaxesreno.com 

Death and Taxes’ dedication to quality cocktails and spirits is at a standard rarely seen, even in larger cities. To taste what they do best, I recommend the Foreign Relations, a stirred cocktail made of classic peated scotch, Japanese whiskey, amaro, banana liquor, chocolate and red bitters. The flavors are likely to rock your world; this is a prime example of one of Reno’s greatest cocktail minds in action. 

Consigliere at Chapel Tavern 

1099 S. Virginia St. 

www.chapeltavern.com; 775-324-2244 

The James Beard Award-nominated Chapel Tavern wanted to make a cocktail you could only get under their roof. The Consigliere is a solera-aged boulevardier poured straight from their proprietary aging system. Your own personal humidity adds to the flavor. The best part is that the drink will be slightly different on each visit, as its most crucial ingredient is time. 

—Michael Moberly, beverage innovation expert and RN&R cocktail columnist 

Casinos 101: How not to be a tourist 

The first thing to do is find a casino with an atmosphere you like. The Silver Legacy has an Old West theme; the Atlantis has a tropical theme; the Peppermill has an Italian theme; the J Resort has a fine-art vibe; and some are just plain ol’ casinos. 

The next thing to do is sign up a players’ club (or three). They’re free to join, and you’ll rack up points that can be used for free play or meals—or save them up for a staycation. Also, at some casinos, you can get locals’ discounts on dining. The J Resort is now offering 25% off meals Sundays through Thursdays, and the Peppermill always offers locals 20% off.

While you are playing, you can get free drinks. (Some casinos have a minimum buy-in.) If you play your cards right, or if luck smiles upon you, you might break even or perhaps win a bit—but usually, you won’t. In any case, a lot of locals go to casinos for a break from the day-to-day routine.  

Be sure to tip your bartenders and cocktail servers. They work hard. 

—David Robert, RN&R photo editor and former casino server 

What’s the deal with all-you-can-eat sushi? 

We kid you not, new residents; this will seem normal one day 

Food trends come and go, but experts in the local food industry say that all-you-can-eat sushi—which made sushi affordable and accessible in Reno starting in the ’90s—is here to stay. Rosario Cormier is the general manager of Sushi Pier, one of the early pioneers of all-you-can-eat. Photo/David Robert

All-you-can-eat sushi is ubiquitous in Reno. One transplant from San Francisco called it “weird and confounding,” but for long-term locals, it’s sushi à la carte that seems novel. Here, we’re accustomed to chowing down on course upon course of rolls, nigiri and apps for a flat price of around $27 to $30 for lunch, or $35 to $40 for dinner. 

Miyuki Wong, a salesperson and purchaser for Sierra Meat and Seafood, has been selling fish to local sushi places for 27 years. She said the all-you-can-eat trend started in 1995, when Sushi Club opened on Moana Lane. (It eventually closed after a 20-year run.) She figures the idea sprang from the casino industry’s all-you-can-eat buffets; maybe Reno was ready for all-you-can-eat meals outside of casinos, too. 

“It just spread like wildfire, really,” Wong said. “People loved it. It was so accessible. It was really yummy. … Sushi Pier became all-you-can-eat, and then everybody became all-you-can-eat. … The quality’s great. The chefs are great. The presentation’s really good. It’s not inferior sushi—but it is, you know, made for the masses.”  

The AYCE trend made sushi, formerly a special-occasion splurge, an easy option for young people on a date and families with kids. To this day, Wong pointed out, AYCE places are usually packed. 

How can restaurateurs afford to let us stuff our faces? They rely largely on good-quality frozen fish, Wong said. She sells frozen hamachi in the $9 per pound range; fresh hamachi is in the $20 range. With the exception of salmon, which is always fresh, and fare from a handful of higher-end places, most of the sushi fish you eat in Reno was once frozen. 

Wong has seen a few sushi places opt for lower-quality frozen fish over the years. “I’ve seen them not last,” she said. 

Heejin Polon, owner of Sushi Pier, has seen the all-you-can-eat sushi scene evolve during her quarter-century tenure.  

“When we first started, our sushi chefs were from Micronesia,” she said. Micronesians brought family members to Reno to work in the industry. Their children were more inclined toward college tracks than kitchen jobs, and Latino chefs then rose to prominence in local sushi kitchens. 

“They started bringing in different flavors like the jalapeños and the spices and the limes and the fruit, the mangoes and things like that,” Polon said. 

So, is AYCE sushi as quintessentially Reno as we think it is? Said Wong: “I’ve never heard of all-you-can-eat in L.A. or San Francisco.” While she has heard of a few AYCE places opening in Las Vegas, she thinks it’s still safe to call it a Reno thing. 

Wong said that a few more high-end, non-AYCE sushi places will open in town in the near future, where you’ll pay top-dollar for premium fish—but that doesn’t mean AYCE sushi is going anywhere.  

“People love it. I think there’ll be room for both,” Wong said. “All-you-can-eat is just so popular, and I think it always will be.” 

Polon’s forecast: “I think it’s going to sustain, because really, with sushi, there’s no substitute. If you are jonesing for sushi, there’s really nothing else that you can eat that’s going to satisfy that craving.” 

—Kris Vagner 

Explore Reno’s history 

One of my top recommendations for newcomers hoping to make Reno feel a bit more like home is to start exploring its history. Familiarizing yourself with the stories and people of our city can do wonders to help you connect with it—and others who live here.  

Here are five local history websites, listed in alphabetical order, that will pique your interest in Reno’s past, and inspire you to start planning some historical excursions of your own. 

City of Reno Historic Preservation 

www.reno.gov/community/arts-culture/historic-preservation 

The city of Reno has created an array of online features on local history. Click on the collection of historic preservation projects to view information and captivating images of historic resources throughout the city, with sections on downtown, the East Fourth Street corridor, Reno’s historic parks, historical markers of the Truckee Meadows and much more. 

Actress Rita Hayworth established residency in Nevada in 1951 in order to divorce her third husband, Prince Aly Khan. Photo/courtesy University Libraries Digital Collections, University of Nevada, Reno, originally made by Hoag’s Photo Shop

Illuminating Reno’s Divorce Industry 

renodivorcehistory.org 

Reno was known as the “Divorce Capital of the World” for nearly six decades, and the impact of the migratory divorce trade helped shape everything from the city’s physical landscape to the adoption of its slogan, “The Biggest Little City in the World.” Created by the University of Nevada, Reno, Libraries, this multimedia website and online archive explains how it worked, and why it mattered. 

Our Story, Inc. 

www.ourstoryinc.com 

The nonprofit organization Our Story, Inc. was founded to “seek out, collect, preserve and exhibit the contributions, heritage and culture of people whose experiences are not well represented in Northern Nevada history.” Check out the “Did You Know?” page for loads of interesting facts, plus features on the Native American experience in Northern Nevada, and the Northern Nevada African American Firefighter Museum. 

In the early 1930s, legislation made divorce easier, and Prohibition was repealed. The ensuing rush of building permits for bars, cocktail lounges and liquor stores contributed to a bustling downtown Reno. Photo/courtesy Philip Galbraith

Reno Historical 

renohistorical.org 

Managed by the Historic Reno Preservation Society, the Reno Historical app and website helps you explore Reno’s history through map-based stories and virtual tours on topics like the historic riverfront, the University of Nevada, and the Black Springs neighborhood, featuring hundreds of images, audio clips and short videos that bring Reno’s past to life. 

Reno-Sparks Indian Colony 

www.rsic.org/225/History  

Long before there was a Reno, the Great Basin was among the ancestral lands of the Numa or Numu (Northern Paiute), the Washeshu (Washoe), the Newe (Shoshone) and the Nuwuvi (Southern Paiute), all of whom continue to call the region home. The Reno-Sparks Indian Colony shares their history up to the present day and describes the cultural resources they preserve, protect and manage. 

—Alicia Barber is a historian, author of the book Reno’s Big Gamble: Image and Reputation in the Biggest Little City, and author of The Barber Brief, a Substack newsletter that covers urban policy, planning and historic preservation in Reno. Subscribe at thebarberbrief.substack.com. 

Follow the RN&R for more advice 

For hundreds more tips on what to do in Reno, stay tuned for our Summer Guide in June to learn about all of the festivals and events that make summer here a blast. In September, pick up our Best of Northern Nevada issue; your neighbors in Reno, Sparks, Carson City, Gardnerville, Minden, Truckee and Tahoe—and now you!—vote on the best of what our region has to offer, and we publish the poll results. 

If you’d like to keep up on what’s happening around town on a weekly basis, get our 11 Days a Week events newsletter (usually published on Wednesdays) and our Editor’s Newsletter, which is news-focused (usually published on Thursdays). To sign up, visit renonr.com

If you have some additional advice for new residents, please email it to krisv@renonr.com. We’ll publish a selection of your comments in the aforementioned Editor’s Newsletter. 

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